I get so many people asking me about proper blanketing techniques, I can't believe it!  Maybe I know this information because I read horse equipment catalogs like most people read a good book.  But I want to know what my options are, how to use the equipment that is available to me and what is good and safe for my horse. 

Through the years, I have kept horses stalled with daily turnout and outside 24/7.  Although it is more difficult for me, my horses seem to like being outside more than stalled.  I do have to say, I have had horses cross my path that prefer a stall for at least night time stabling.  My present horse Primo…well, he's an outside kind of guy and loves to live in the rough.  I usually keep him blanketed and do have a stall available to him in very inclement weather.  I really think it is for my own peace of mind verses his preference though!  Things to remember are: Cold wind causes horses the greatest discomfort and more rapidly saps their energy because it whips away body heat faster than any other condition. Cold rain is a close second, chilling the skin through conduction and flattening of the hairs' insulating loft.

I have a few simple techniques I follow, and suggest to people/clients when it comes to proper blanketing.  First, I dress my horses like I dress myself in cold, rainy or nasty weather…in layers.  I hail from a Quarter Horse halter and pleasure barn were we believe in beautiful hair-coats.  Those coats shine because the horses are thoroughly (and I mean thoroughly) groomed from head to tail and ears to hoof every day!  I use an Electro Groom vacuum just about everyday on my horses along with clean, natural fiber brushes.  Nylon brushes are for getting mud off a horse, not for producing a beautiful shine.  Natural bristles clean each hair and the dirt clings to the natural fibers whereas with a nylon brush, it just moves the dirt around.  Of course, my brushes are washed weekly too.  You can't get a horse clean with dirty brushes!

Next, I always use a nylon sheet under any blanket I put on a horse.  I use it like his underwear and change it out each week.  It is replaced with a clean nylon sheet and the warmer blankets are applied on the top-most layers. 

I then apply a proper weight blanket on top of that.  Sometimes it's only a Turnout Sheet or possibly a Mid-Weight or Heavy-Weight blanket depending on the weather conditions. 

As far as Hoods or Neck Covers are concerned, I only use them in very inclement weather and usually only on horses that are living outside 24/7.  I only use Neck Covers.  It seems the horses are more happy with their heads uncovered.  You do have to make sure they are secured to the body-blanket correctly so they do not slip over the head or flip up.  That could present a serious problem and discomfort to the horse.  Make sure your Neck Cover or Hood also has a nylon lining to protect the mane.  When the weather has calmed down, I take the Neck Cover off. 

When I take a horse out of the stall or bring them in, before I un-blanket the horse, I put my hand under the blanket up by the back to make sure he/she is not too warm.  Of course, I monitor the weather closely as to what level of blanketing will be required for upcoming conditions.  I (and the horses) prefer to be a tad on the cool side verses the warm side.  So long as the horse stays dry and the blankets are not soaked through, the horse will stay very comfortable.  Each of my horses have at least 2 nylon liners, 2 Turnout Sheets, 1 Mid-Weight blanket and 1 Heavy-Weight blanket. 

If someone can not groom their horse daily, I then recommend that they do not blanket their horse.  Horses are very hardy animals and if not groomed often enough, the blankets will cause itching and discomfort to the animal. 

Below, I have included a glossary of types and terms of blankets.  I hope this may help you decide what to purchase and use in your area to protect your horse from the elements.

Happy Driving….

Linda

Different Types of Horse Apparel

Sheets

Sheets don’t have any fill, (just like the sheets on your bed) so they’re the lightest piece of apparel in your horse’s wardrobe. There are many different types of sheets and I’ve listed the most common ones below:

• Stable Sheet – The stable sheet is the piece of apparel people are usually referring to when they simply say “sheet”. Usually made from cotton, poly/cotton, nylon or canvas, stable sheets are designed to keep the coat clean and provide a light layer of warmth.
• Show Scrims– Scrims are extremely lightweight, open-weave sheets designed to keep your horse clean ringside at shows. Usually made from poly/cotton or nylon fabric and embroidered with the horse or barn name, scrims are generally considered to be more about style than function.
• Anti-Sweat Sheet – Similar to scrims, anti-sweat sheets have an open-weave that increases breathability and reduces sweat build-up. They are usually made from 100% cotton or a poly/cotton blend to help wick away moisture. Anti-sweat sheets are a great option after summer rides when you want to keep your horse clean while he cools out.
• Fly Sheet – Designed to protect your horse from pesky bugs, fly sheets are lightweight, breathable and durable enough to withstand turnout. Some fly sheets offer UV protection, while others may be treated with insect repellants for extra bug-blocking power.
• Rain Sheet – Rain sheets offer waterproof protection for your horse and your tack. They’re great for horse shows or stables where the indoor is not attached to the barn. Traditional rain sheets cover the horse from the poll to the top of the tail, however they’re not very secure and therefore not recommended for use in turnout.
• Turnout Sheet – Just like rain sheets, turnout sheets are completely waterproof due to a special coating. Unlike rain sheets, turnout sheets are very secure and designed to stay in place when your horse is running out in the field. Some blanket manufacturers refer to turnout sheets as “light turnout blankets”, since they serve the same function (lightweight waterproof protection.)
• Dress Sheet – Dress sheets are finely crafted fleece, wool or wool blend sheets that offer both style and functionality. They keep your horse cozy (and looking fabulous) on chilly horse show mornings, wick away moisture when he’s cooling out and can be used as blanket liners for extra warmth in particularly cold weather.

Quarter Sheets

Usually made of fleece or wool, quarter sheets are designed to cover your horse’s hindquarters and wrap up under the saddle flaps or over your legs when you’re riding. Many riders prefer to use quarter sheets just for the warm up, while others keep them on for the entire ride, especially during long, cool-weather trail rides.

Cooler

Coolers come in two styles: square and fitted. Square coolers are oversized and loose, draping over your horse from the poll to the top of the tail and hanging just below the belly. Fitted coolers are snug-fitting, like stable sheets, and the term “fitted cooler” is often used interchangeably with “dress sheet”. Regardless of the cut, coolers are made from fleece or wool that draws moisture away from the skin while trapping heat; helping to keep horses warm and dry, not cold and clammy, as they cool out after winter riders.

Stable Blankets

Stable blankets are similar in style and material to stable sheets, but unlike sheets, blankets are filled, like the comforter on your bed. They come in a range of weights, offering different levels of warmth so that you can dress your horse according to the weather. Because the exterior material is not waterproof, stable blankets are generally used when the horse is in the stall. For waterproof protection, some owners will layer a turnout sheet over their horse’s stable blanket when the horse is outside.

Turnout Blankets

Turnout blankets combine the warmth of a stable blanket with the waterproofing of a turnout sheet. Just like stable blankets, turnout blankets come in a range of weights, to allow for temperature fluctuations throughout the winter. Their exterior material has a waterproof coating and a breathable membrane to keep your horse warm and dry through the worst winter weather. Some manufacturers, particularly those in Europe, will refer to turnout blankets as “turnout rugs”.

Glossary of Blanket Features

• Weight/Fill – The weight of a blanket refers to the amount of fill, or “stuffing”, which is measured in grams. A lightweight blanket (aka “sheet”) has 0g or no fill. Medium-weight blankets have anywhere from 150-225g of fill. Heavyweight blankets have 250-370g of fill, with a few ultra-heavyweight blankets weighing in at 400g of fill.
• Denier – Denier is the measure of nylon fiber density, and is used to rate the strength of the exterior material on horse blankets. Like fill weight, denier varies greatly from one blanket to the next. A higher denier, like 1200D, indicates the blanket is more durable and more water-resistant than a lower denier, like 600D.
• Rip-Stop – Rip-stop nylon features a checkerboard weave that helps prevent small rips from spreading, so you can patch a small hole instead of replacing the entire blanket.
• Ballistic – Ballistic nylon was originally developed for use in bulletproof vests. Ballistic nylon turnout blankets won’t stop bullets, but they will put up with a lot of abuse.
• Lining – Because the exterior material is often quite rough, in order to stand up to the elements, many blankets have liners that are softer against your horse’s skin. Cotton or poly/cotton linings are absorbent, nylon linings help polish the coat and mesh linings enhance air flow and moisture management.
• High Neck – This style of turnout blanket is cut significantly higher up on the horse’s neck, offering extended protection from the elements.
• Neck Rug/Neck Cover – These separate pieces are made from the same material as turnout blankets, and are designed to attach to the turnout blanket for more complete coverage. Many owners use neck rugs to adjust their horse’s level of protection and warmth as the temperature fluctuates.
• Hood – Like neck rugs, hoods are separate pieces that can be used for extra warmth. Unlike neck rugs, hoods are made from the same material as stable blankets and cover the horse’s face, as well as the neck.
• Front Closures –
  • Buckle-Front – Just like a regular belt buckle, usually nylon straps with a metal buckle. Offers a lot of adjustability.
  • Surcingle – Also known as “T-locks”, surcingle closures on the front of the blanket will function just like the belly surcingles, with two metal pieces that interlock to keep the blanket closed.
  • Quick-Clip – Any metal snap or clip fastener that you can open and close with one hand. Really “handy” to have if you’re taking blankets on and off repeatedly. Easy to use with gloves, which is a big plus in the winter!
  • V-Front – Usually cut a little higher on the neck, V-Front blankets fasten lower on the chest, eliminating pressure when the horse has his head down.
  • Closed Front – Closed-front blankets have no opening in the chest, so they’re taken on and off over the head. The smooth, streamlined fit helps eliminates bunching and rubs.
  • Shoulder Gussets – Gusseted blankets have an extra piece of fabric sewn in at the shoulder, to allow for great range of motion.
  • Padded Withers – Fleece or foam padding at the withers can reduce rubbing, a common problem for many horses.
  • Leg Arches™ – With Horseware Ireland’s patented Leg Arches™, the edge of the blanket is cut back around the legs to allow for movement without interference or rubs from the blanket.
  • Surcingle – The belly strap(s) that is primarily responsible for keeping the blanket in place. Sheets and blankets can have anywhere from one to three surcingles, with two being the most common. The more surcingles on the blanket, the more likely it is to stay in place.
  • Leg Straps – These straps criss-cross between the horse’s back legs, providing stability, preventing the blanket from riding up or shifting out of place.
  • Tail Flap/Tail Cover – An extra swatch of fabric that covers the tail area, usually to the bottom of the tail bone, to help seal out cold winds.
  • Tail Cord – This cord ties the back ends of the blanket together and rests under the tail, helping to keep the blanket in place.

Stretching your horse…Not just for showing!

In my previous horse life, of which I have had several (AQHA, Arabians, Apps, Saddlebreds, and one Thoroughbred and now Warmbloods), I really did not understand the difference between an effective stretch, which is one that adds a gymnastic quality to the horse's body and a non-effective stretch which is where the horse just lowers the front part of the body as seen while a horse grazes or eats on the ground. By that, I mean a horse does not have collar bones as we humans do. Their shoulder blades are attached to their bodies by soft tissue. (Great book to read "Tug of War" by Gerd Heuschmann). There are no joints connecting the front legs and shoulder blades to the horse's rib cage. When a horse grazes and must reach to the ground, he lowers his entire rib cage through his shoulder blades. (Watch next time your horse eats off the ground…the top-line becomes more flat looking). When we drive and let the reins out to stretch a horse, some horses will dive down and "seek the ground" in this manner. They drop their rib cage as if they were grazing. This is a stretch that does not involve the horse's back; it simply drops the rib cage. In fact, when a horse has dropped his rib cage to lower his neck, this will put him on the forehand. Yes,…his nose is on the ground, but it is not due to the horse stretching over the back, it is due to the dropping of the rib cage.

For us to achieve a good stretch, where the horse's entire body is involved, the best way to teach a proper stretch is on a circle. We must establish a good bend. The bend helps to keep the horse's inside hind leg engaged and keep him balanced. Make sure the horse stays stepping forward to your outside rein as discussed in last month's article.

As your horse starts to drop his head a bit, gradually let the reins out of your hand while maintaining the bend on the circle. Even if your horse does not reach down with his nose very far in the beginning, keeping him on the circle while "playing" with the reins to encourage him to seek and stretch to the bit will keep him off of his forehand and will get some stretch in his back and neck muscles. Start at the walk and work up to trot.

You don't have to have a show horse to take advantage of stretching your horse down long and low. It is a wonderful feeling for any horse at any time, especially after any length of time pulling a carriage at a nicely forward trot with a load. In fact, I always point out to my students that a stretched neck and a rounded back are a key component to a correctly and happy riding and driving horse. If you have ever gone to a horse pull, where the big drafts back up to a load weighing in at over a ton, when that ring hits the pin, those horses look like they drop to their knees, their necks are down and they start pushing with their hind legs. The front legs are for stability only and the pull if all from the back to the hind legs.

So, while I work a horse, and I feel or see a horse drop his back during his work, I will immediately circle, re-establish my contact with a bend, and then lower his neck (rounding him up) to stretch him and then softly bring his neck up a slight bit. Using this exercise, the horse will eventually learn to keep his back up and will produce much more power and ultimately more comfort for him.

So, you ask...How do I tell a good stretch from a bad stretch? Indications of a bad stretch are if the horse dives down into the contact at the beginning of the session or snatches the reins. Another clue is if he goes down quickly and immediately goes back up. Another indication of a bad stretch is when the horse is difficult to pick back up and be put on the bit after the stretch.

The horse should stretch into the contact at the same speed as you lengthen your reins. The horse should remain pliable in the stretched walk or trot and you should be able to control the tempo and bend.

The stretch can also be used as a reward for the horse and a welcome break from any work whether it is on the trail or in the ring. My horses, even while free lunging, will drop their necks and stretch at the walk, trot and canter. When your horse realizes how good a proper stretch feels, they will welcome the opportunity every time you give it to them.

Happy and safe driving to all…

Linda